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Sistema Ox Bel
Ha: Quintana Roo's newest giant
By Christophe Le Maillot
This is
a quick month to month description of the 1998 and mid-1999 exploration
project of this system (a connection between Sistema "Chik'in
Ha" and "Esmeralda"). Using different configurations,
approaches, and techniques, we patiently discovered what potentially
could be the third largest underwater cave in the World.
A cave of
this proportion offers a variety of distinct features.
-A shallow
portion (25 to 34 ft) is encountered from the main Cenote (Del Mar)
up to 5000 ft upstream in a W/NW heading. The very swampy surrounding
gives the cave a black coloring, very similar to Sistema Naharon.
Various decorations can be observed throughout. Shallower rooms
seem to present more formations. Eight different cenotes are scattered
over this large area. A light flow can be felt at all times.
-Very large
tunnels and huge chambers in the most western
direction before getting to Cenote Canales. The average depth is
40 ft and the deepest section (Orion) is 47 ft. Halocline is found
between 42 and 45 feet. Flow is always present. Decorated
in some places. Beautiful Cenote 9000 ft from main entrance: De
La Familia.
-A northern
lead with a big, wide tunnel and complex side passage. Lots
of breakdowns and tanic domes in which blind cave fish and isopods
often can be observed. Lack of formations and halocline at
40 ft. Maximum depth is 55 feet.
-Three connections
to the ocean via similar but separate ways. Going straight East,
this complicated downstream becomes shallower closer to the sea.
The flow gets extremely strong towards the exits. Sidemount configuration
is necessary to go through several restricted parts. The bottom
composition turns gradually to sand. Seafans, coconuts, and shells
are a constant reminder of your close proximity to the ocean. The
fresh and salt water only mix very near the surface (about 8 ft).
All exits are located approximately 3/400 ft away from one another.
Snappers and Grunts are found in large numbers in the short
cavern zones of the exit cracks. Tarpons were encountered a thousand
feet inside the cave (always a scary surprise).
-Deep canyons
areas past Cenote Esmeralda from which depth range changes between
50 and 80 feet. These deeper salt water passages are highly decorated
and contain fossilized sponges. The tunnels are big, with an average
width of 40 ft.
A condensed
exploration overview:
June 1998:
After a
quick reconnaissance dive on the 3rd, we went back the next day
to survey the 3,350 ft of existing lines from previous French and
American projects, led at different times by Steve Keane and Tamara
Kendell. Bernie and I laid 5,500 ft going straight east towards
the ocean. This downstream section is characterized by narrow passages
and a strong flow (lines: Al Mar, E Gate, Cabanas, and Mosquitia).
Diving S/SW from the Main Entrance (Cenotes Del Mar), a 3,000 ft
loop was added (lines: Labyrinth, Lab Conecter, L Line). Working
around the nearby Cenote Mangrove and Tarpon, 3,500 ft was laid
due west (Kite and All Black lines). From existing lines (names
Wassy and Wussy), in a N/W direction, we squeezed this time with
our sidemount configuration through the small Coconut Drive and
D.O.M. Sections for 2,000 ft of new lines.
No. of dives:
12
Total Bottom Time: 2085 minutes
Total line surveyed: 15,500 ft.
Total line laid: 12,150 ft.
Explorers: Bernie Birnbach, Bil Philipps, Christophe Le Maillot
July 1998:
Excited
by the previous month's progress, we decided to focus our exploration
mainly upstream, where the cave seemed to be the most promising.
After 5 dives, we laid more than 10,000 ft. To the NW we added to
the map the following lines: KFC, Magic, Aves, Arbol and 1 Cenote:
La Meza. The main passage turned west, to run 2,150 ft (Low Land
line) to the beautiful Cenote De La Familia. Moving north from the
Wassy Line, on later dives, we encountered a shallow and decorated
cave (DOM 2) at first, which extended after only 1,000 ft to a deeper
section (Rimet) with halocline visible at 38 ft. In two different
dives, we joined Bernie's Aves line with Rimet (Der Konnector: 900
ft) and found a lead going SE (Syphon Norte). Towards the end of
the month, during 5 long dives, Daniel Riordan helped us push the
Rimet section for another 7,400 ft. The end of the line is now 10,046
ft from Main Entrance.
No. of dives:
15
Total Bottom Time: 3407 minutes
Total line laid: 23,786 ft
Longest penetration from Main Entrance: 10, 046 ft
New Cenotes: La Meza, Victoria, De La Familia
Explorers: Bernie Birnbach, Daniel Riordan, Christopher Le Maillot
August 1998:
The objective
for this hot summer month was to connect the cave to the ocean.
From the shore, we observed 4 rushing streams of fresh water exiting
furiously into the ocean. They were spaced out by 400 ft regular
intervals from the Cabana Tulum Hotel continuing southbound. Our
existing eastern line: E Gate and Al Mar were going towards the
sea but the strong flow made us think twice about trying to connect
them from the cave. We divided into two teams and fought an extremely
severe current. Both teams finally connected at two different spots
after only 600 ft (the E Gate line - exit 1). The next exits were
eventually connected: #2 after 550 ft of narrow passages; and #3
a few days later with a smaller entrance but a better defined tunnel
to Al Mar section. Exit 4, however, was too restricted to allow
us to squeeze further in. Only a few dives upstream were made during
the remainder of the month, adding "Ball Park" to the
end of "Lowlands" for another 2,450 ft (still going big
W/NW) and an off shoot passage of 1,400 ft (Sickman's Passage) to
the main "Rimet" Section.
No. of dives:
10
Total Bottom Time: 1270 minutes
Total line laid: 9,190 ft
Explorers: Bernie Birnbach, Daniel Riordan, Christophe Le Maillot,
Fred Devos
September
and October 1998:
Our idea
was adding several thousand feet of cave string to the end of the
enormous "Ballpark" and "Rimet" sections. We
used set up dives to avoid losing too much time going through the
first restricted part of the system with too much equipment. After
a couple of failed attempts, we managed to extend "Ballpark"
by 2,000 ft and finding a small cenote (Luz). On 6/10, we returned
adding Orion to the chart for another 3,000 ft and setting our personal
penetration record to 14,000.
No. of dives:
6
Total bottom time: 1343 minutes
Total line laid: 5,000 ft
Longest penetration from Main Entrance: 14,000 ft
Explorers: Bernie Birnbach, Christophe Le Maillot
November
and December 1998:
We discovered
two more sections, off our two main upstream tunnels: "Blind
wall", and "Black hole". Cutting SW/S/SE for 2,800
ft from the "Ballpark" line and "El Tucan" out
of "Rimet" which ran SE in a twisted and complicated way.
No. of dives:
2
Total Bottom Time: 715 minutes
Total line laid: 4,500 ft
Explorers: Bernie Birnbach and Christophe Le Maillot
Total surveyed passage for the year: 58,000 ft
January,
February and March 1999
A better
land survey and a closer look at various aerial pictures, made us
realize the extreme proximity of Sistema "Esmeralda".
In fact, Cenote "Luz" could probably be part of "Canales,"
the massive downstream Cenote of this system. We thought that from
the "Orion" line we might be able to eventually connect
to "Esmeralda." Unfortunately, we laid a little more than
500 ft the first time, which looped back frustratingly to itself.
However, our hopes were not deterred. On March 13th, we headed instead
for the "Ball Park" section. Here we found ourselves at
55 ft for a 350 ft run. It opened then to a shallower breakdown
portion of the cave in which we swam against what appeared to be
a very encouraging flow. We battled restrictions for another 600
ft carefully negotiating this very unstable collapse. We finally
tied in the unfamiliar line (Paso de Lagarto) not quite realizing
yet what we really had accomplished. As a result, the connection
between the two systems became Ox Bel Ha. We surveyed back
to the main line adding shortly after 1,100 ft to the end of "Ball
Park".
No. of dives:
7
Total Bottom Time: 1459 minutes
Total line laid: 4,300 ft
Explorers: Bernie Birnbach, Christophe Le Maillot,
Esmeralda: Sam Meacham, Bil Philipps, Fred Devos, Daniel Riordan
Total Length of Ox Bel Ha to date: 101,000
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